What We Did
Blakely Downs
Palau: A Scuba Fantasy

Palau.  Where we swam with a mob of jellyfish, free dove to hidden lagoons, Kayaked caves, and had the best scuba diving we’ve ever done.

 

Palau: A Scuba Fantasy
What We Did
Blakely Downs
Bolivia - Our Quest to the Salt Flats
Bolivia - Our Quest to the Salt Flats
What We Did
Blakely Downs
The Holy Sites of the Old City
The Holy Sites of the Old City
What We Did
Blakely Downs
Jerusalem
Jerusalem
What We Did
Blakely Downs
The Christian Sites of Galilee
The Christian Sites of Galilee

Iguaçu Falls

Iguaçu Falls is a magnificent wonder of nature's beauty and power.  It's gorgeous, and humbling.  

It is also huge.  In particular, it is wide.  The falls are divided into many different waterfalls and cataracts that make it a delight to explore.  Both the Brazilian and Argentinian sides are very well done and both respective parks have walkways and hikes to explore the falls.  The Brazil side has breathtaking vistas that capture the vastness of the falls while Argentina’s side allows an up-close look from all angles (as well as some activities!).  Since both sides are amazing, we decided to do both!

On the Brazilian side, we stayed at the oasis Hostel Natura, which is outside of town on gorgeous grounds.  Lean into the hippy vibes, and enjoy.

The Iguaçu National Park on the Brazil side of the falls offers tons of hikes and activities, but the main event is a hike that follows the length of the falls.  View after view after view of the massive falls with a finale consisting of a walk along the base to feel the water’s powerful spray.  Also not bad is the top-notch lunch buffet restaurant that sits on top of the falls!

Iguaçu Falls, Iguazu Falls, Brazil

Next we headed to Argentina.  We bought a two-day pass so we could explore the expansive National Park to our hearts content.  There are several worthwhile walking loops and they are all differently spectacular.  Our favorite was probably above the falls, where you can watch the water roll over the edge into a terrifying abyss.  Take the last train (yes, there’s a train) at 4:00 PM to avoid the crowds.

On Day Two, we explored before opting for a little boat ride…into the falls.  This joy ride takes you all along the base of the falls and then guns it into the falls so you can really feel the water’s power.  It was hilarious.  See for yourself…

I can't believe we did that, but I'd definitely do it again!  Would you?

Isla Grande, Paraty, and Sao Paulo

Isla Grande is a small island off the coast of Brazil with gorgeous beaches, tons of hikes, and no cars allowed.  Sign us up!

The island is undeveloped because it has historically been home to some undesirable inhabitants.  It was once home to a leper colony and then later the site of a top security prison.  The prison, which housed the most dangerous criminals, was closed in 1994.  Once rid of these less than ideal citizens, the island’s pristine beauty, unspoiled nature, and convenient yet isolated location made it a perfect tourist destination.

We stayed at Tropical Mountain House, which was a 20-minute jungle hike from the port.  It’s a charming place with private suites, a hammock-filled porch with ocean view, and a well-stocked kitchen.  Perfect for us!  We hiked to amazing beaches, yoga’d, caught up on writing, and Ryan reread Treasure Island in one sitting.  A perfect vacation to energize us for the next portion of our trip.

After Isla Grande we took a ferry to delightful Paraty—a UNESCO World Heritage Site and picturesque colonial town.  The grid layout of cobble-stoned streets shows whitewash buildings with colorful trimmings that contrast beautifully with the dark wood.  

We stayed in the family run ­­­Hotel Solar dos Gerânios, a restored mansion from the early 1900s.  It had a lobby we want to mimic in our library one day and rooms overlooking the town square.  We loved it so much we extended our stay a night, and then another night!  We toured the town, ate in the delicious restaurants, and went on an island hopping tour to the neighboring beaches.

But we had to move on eventually and make our way to Sao Paulo.  We had low expectations for this city—it’s the business hub of Brazil with a lackluster reputation.  Maybe it was our low hopes, but we were pleasantly surprised by Sao Paulo!  We stayed at Sampa Hostel, which has simple clean rooms and really cool art around it.  Plus, the neighborhood Vila Madalena can’t be beat for restaurants and nightlife.

The fabulous artwork at Sampa!

Sao Paulo has a surprisingly clean and doable subway system that we used to its full advantage.  We first went to the Museum of Immigration, which not only highlights Sao Paulo’s role in immigration for South America, but also gives a fascinating perspective on pioneers and immigrants throughout history.  The museum put us in the shoes of immigrants and, as we constantly move from one place to the next, we could identify with the need and fear of discovering a new home (of course recognizing our trip is much less stressful!).

We continued on our self-guided walking tour to the spectacular Theatro Municipal.  Considered Sao Paulo’s most splendid construction, the theater was built in the early 1900s and is still used today.

We next walked to the Mercado Municipal, a covered market with any local food you could wish for.  The market was designed as an old train station, which has a gorgeous setup that also happened to be a delicious spot for lunch!

Our time in Sao Paulo was very brief, but we had places to get to!  In particular, magnificent Iguaçu Falls!  



Rio de Janeiro

We arrived in Rio straight from the Middle East, and as these are very different cultures, we were ready for a bit of a shock.  Nothing could have prepared us!  Flesh, everywhere!

Rio has an energy and passion for life that is infectious.  Couples kiss on the street, there is constant loud chatting and laughter, and women and men wear the scantiest of clothing no matter what their mass.  It is fabulous.

We stayed in the top apartment room at Casada Harmonia, which was an excellent choice.  The hosts were a blast as well as a wealth of information.  Once we got settled, it was time to hit the town!  If you know us, you won’t be surprised we chose bikes!  Rio has over three hundred kilometers of bike paths, which make bikes an amazing option for exploring.  

Next up was obvious: Christo.  Not so obvious was our choice to hike to the top!  After the 45-minute hike with steep incline, we felt like we earned the magnificent sight of Christo.  I’m not sure what we expected, but he is colossal!  Another surprise was the surrounding view—Rio’s geography is full of islets and the vista is breathtaking. 

Also, at the base of the trail is a gorgeous old mansion and its expansive garden grounds.  The walk around is beautiful and peaceful—definitely worth a look.

Christo is WAAAYYYY up there!

Almost there!

Next we went to another main attraction in Brazil: a football match!  This being our first game, we were a bit wary.  The reputation of Brazilian football can be intense, sometimes dangerously so.  We shouldn’t have worried.  We made friends with a local in the ticket line and he gave us an inside look (including the team’s fight songs and gossip!).  As you can see, we got into it quickly.

The following day we visited one of the coolest churches we’ve ever seen (and yes, we're saying this after going to Israel):  The Metropolitan Cathedral of Rio de Janeiro.  The outside looks uber sketchy, but once you walk inside, your eyes will travel up and your jaw will drop.  Massive stain glass windows that measure 210 feet high and an alter piece that hangs from the 246 foot ceiling make this a wonder to behold.  Absolutely worth a visit.

Next were the Escadaria Selaron, or the “Selaron Steps.”  The bright tiles project the colors of the Brazilian flag, and the steps were artist Jorge Selaron’s “tribute to the Brazilian people.”  The eclectic mix of decorated tiles has something for everyone—even a girl from Augusta, Georgia!

Any golf fans recognize him???

But honestly, you don’t travel to Rio to view sights the whole time.  Arguably the main attraction is the culture, people, and nightlife!  In honor of that, we hit the town to see if we still had it in us (after Africa and the Middle East, we were a bit out of practice!).

First up:  A Brazilian BBQ.  Ryan's past corporate life (and inner fat kid) gave him some experience in this, and strategy is key.  First, as delectable as the salad bar looks, don’t fall for it.  You don’t want to fill up on the parmesan wheel.  Second, the servers walk around with every type of meat.  Be selective.  Know what the best cuts are, and become best friends with that server!

After this, we fought the food coma to hit up one of the coolest neighborhoods for nightlife: Lapa.  The streets of ­­­­Lapa are full of people, and the bars were full of music!  It’s the Brazilian version of the New Orleans French Quarter.  We went to Rio Scenarium which is fantastically decorated and has tons of different nooks for different scenes and music.  We hit up the samba floor (though our samba looked suspiciously like swing dancing) and had a blast doing it!

It’s worth discussing Rio’s reputation as a fairly dangerous city.  Like most big cities, a certain level of danger exists that is easily taken care of through street smarts.  Unfortunately for Rio, this danger is a bit escalated because the slums of the city aren’t isolated to certain areas, but located throughout the city.  These flavelas are fenced off (which speaks to a worse time when people were locked inside for certain hours) and the children from these areas will coordinate to raid the beaches.  Rio has been battling the issue for decades and is slowly making progress.  As long as you take precautions (don’t flash your camera, iphone, and jewelry around!) you’ll avoid being a target.

We had a fabulous time in Rio, but the rest of Southern Brazil was calling.  Specifically: a teensy island called Isla Grande.

The Holy Sites of the Old City

Our last day in Jerusalem was our reason to be there:  A tour of the Holy Sites in the Old City.  An all-day tour wasn’t enough time to go to all of the sites, but it hit the more significant ones.  And when you’re talking about the capital of the Holy Land, you can imagine these places were VERY significant.  If you don’t know anything about the treasures of Jerusalem's Old City, know about these:

The Dome of the Rock:  This place is one of the most prized pieces of land for both the Jewish and Muslim faiths, which makes it extremely precious and delicate.  It has a long and very distinguished history.  One, the location of the Dome is the original site of the First and Second Jewish Temples, the Temple Mount.  Two, the Foundation Stone, located at the heart of the Dome, is believed by Jews to be the location of the Holy of Holies in the Second Temple, and therefore the holiest place in the world.  Additionally, the stone is believed to be where Abraham prepared his son Isaac for sacrifice.  The Dome’s location has additional importance in Islam because it is where, in the miracle of Isra and Mi'raj, Mohammed ascended into heaven to speak to God and the major prophets before coming back to earth with instructions for God’s people.  The dome was built in 637 A.D. and, though it was converted to a church for a brief period by the Crusaders, Muslims control the mosque site today.

There are strict rules to follow while in the site.  Besides the usual dress code regulations, men and women aren’t allowed to touch and non-Muslims aren’t allowed to enter the mosque.  Jewish people do not enter the site’s grounds at all.  We originally thought it was in silent protest to the Muslim control, but we later learned that it’s because, since the temples were destroyed, we can’t be sure where we are stepping and they could unknowingly trod on the holiest of holy spots.   

The Western Wall:  On the site where the Dome of the Rock is today, originally stood the First and Second Jewish Temples.  King Herod expanded the Second Temple and, in order to make the hill level, built a gigantic, rectangular platform foundation.  When the second temple was destroyed, that platform foundation remained as just four walls.  Today, the wall encloses the grounds of the Dome of the Rock.  With us so far?

So, a small section of this wall is called the Western Wall.  It is considered to be the closets of the walls to the original temple, and so it is considered to be the holiest one.  Today, many Jews come to pray at the Western Wall because it is the closest they can get to the Temple without entering onto the holy site.  This small section of the wall is not the only surviving portion of the original wall, like many people circulate. 

At the Western Wall, prayer is separated by men and women.

The Church of Holy Sepulcher:  This Church is the Church of all Churches.  It’s where it went down.  This church is built over the locations where Jesus was crucified and buried.  Therefore, where he died, and where he rose from the dead. YES, all one church.  The original church was built by Constantine the Great’s orders in 325 A.D.  It has been torn down and rebuilt many times with the surrounding buildings of Jerusalem coming right up to its border.  The result is a church unlike any other, made of many different rooms with many different denominations adorning throughout.  It’s probably best that the church is so different—no building could encompass the greatness of what happened here and it would be foolish to try. 

Unfortunately, this church also shows the internal competition between denominations that control it.  The territories are strict and sensitive between the groups with each one elbowing the other for more space.  It’s heartbreaking, and not the way it should be.

The church's entrance.

The stone where Jesus' body was lain and prepared for the tomb.

Via Dolorosa (The Way of Suffering):  This is a path through the Old City that is held to be where Jesus walked to his crucifixion.  It includes nine of the Stations of the Cross, including the trial by Pontius Pilot, the three falls, and where Simon of Cyrene carries the cross for Jesus.  The five other Stations are all within the Church of the Holy Sepulcher. 

Where Jesus laid his hand to rest.

The Way winds through the normal streets of the Old City, just as Jesus would have as he carried the cross.

In addition to these spectacular sites, it’s possible to see King David’s tomb, the remains of an ancient Roman street, and the place where the Last Supper was celebrated.  It was an exhausting day, but we returned to our room invigorated by the wonder for all we got to see!

King David's Tomb.

King David's Tomb.

A replica of the ancient mosaic map of Jerusalem that we saw in Madaba.

Wow can’t be said enough.  With our heads and hearts full, we left Jerusalem to continue on through Israel.  Though the great city will be with us forever.

Click Here for our full Israel Gallery.

Jerusalem

Many call Jerusalem the center of the world, and it’s hard to argue since all eyes seem to be trained on it.  The city is wonderfully modern and fairly safe—a first for us since Cape Town and definitely a relief.  The Old City, separated from the rest of Jerusalem by beautiful limestone walls, holds more awe-inspiring attractions than any other place in the world.  

The Old City is divided into four quarters:  The Muslim Quarter, Christian Quarter, Jewish Quarter, and Armenian Quarter.  The ancient, cobblestoned streets wind through a fairly small place that holds precious places for three major religions.  It’s not difficult to see how complicated the city would be to regulate.

We started our time in Jerusalem our favorite way: a bike tour (was a whiter sentence ever said?)!  But not any bike tour, a sunrise bike tour!  The tour’s early hours allow access to crowd-free sights and streets in both the Old City and modern city.  It was the perfect introduction and gave us an appreciation for the wonders in store for us.  At one point, we were standing over where the Last Supper occurred, beside the building that holds King David’s tomb, looking out over a sunrise on the Mount of Olives, with the Dome of the Rock and Temple Mount to our left!    

We continued our first day with an afternoon tour of the Old City from Tours for Tips.  WOW again!  The brief introduction (two-hours was NOT enough!) only reiterated that we needed to get busy!

It was Ryan's birthday and his parents gave us a special treat: Dinner at Notre Dame of Jerusalem, which has a rooftop cheese and wine restaurant that overlooks the Old City.  It was a feast!

The next day, we took a quick day trip to Bethlehem.  Bethlehem is in the West Bank, a Palestinian territory, so we weren’t sure what to expect (again, we were here during a time of increased tension).  While we never felt threatened, we did have to pass through a guard station to get into the area.  We felt grateful that we could pass in and out of the territory freely, while this is much more difficult for others.  Plus, the streets of Bethlehem were eerily quiet and empty, as their tourism has been affected greatly while people worry about the clashes between Jews and Palestinians.

Bethlehem is a quiet city with stone streets that haven’t changed since Mary and Joseph first arrived on the scene.  It was a marvel to walk where they would’ve walked!  

The Church of the Nativity is built over the stable where Jesus was born.  Unfortunately the church was under restoration construction, but we were still able to glimpse the beauty behind the tarps.  History tells us that the stable where Jesus was born was actually more of a cave that would be under the main house.  We were able to go down into the cave where the altars hardly conceal the humble beginning of God’s son. 

The cave was divided amongst the Catholic priests in one corner, the Greek Orthodox in another section, and the Armenians in a third section.  Each denomination’s territory had strict property lines and hours of operation.  While hundreds of people line up, the Armenians performed communion before the cave opened.  Then, the cave wasn’t open thirty minutes before the Catholic priests closed it to hold a private communion.  The hundreds of people waiting would just have to wait a bit longer.  I heard many tour guides explain to their groups how viciously each denomination fought for dominion over territory.  It was a mess and a disgrace.  This is the face we show the world?  We have no excuse to fight amongst ourselves like this, but we tried to not let this detract from standing in the place Jesus was born.

Anyway, after our short trip to Bethlehem we headed to Jerusalem’s fabulous street market for our favorite activity: picnic preparation.  The selection was amazing—blueberry walnut bread (that tastes fantastic, by the by), cheese of every type (including a truffle honey situation we couldn’t afford), and an Israeli wine we dared to try. Whether in Central Park or Jerusalem, these are all of the ingredients for a fantastic picnic.

After our picnic we went to the world class Israeli museum.  WOW.  It has more artifacts than could be imagined on its well organized and laid out grounds.  Everything we could’ve wanted!

Blakely with a model of the Second Temple and the Holy City before the Roman destruction in 66 A.D.

Among many other things, this one museum holds the Venus Berekhat Ram (the oldest artwork in the world dating back to at least 230,000BC), a world-class Fine Arts Wing, and an Archeological Wing that literally tells the story of the world.  No biggy.  But main event for us?  The Shrine of the Book.

The Shrine of the Book holds the famous Dead Sea Scrolls, which contain the oldest biblical scrolls in the world.  These scrolls date back from 300 B.C. and into 1 A.D.  While pictures weren't allowed inside the vault, we can tell you this: they had better handwriting than us.

The vault entrance.

The next day was the main event: A tour of the holy sites of Jerusalem.  Get ready!

Check out the full Israel Gallery here.

The Christian Sites of Galilee

Our first stop in Israel was Nazareth, a small city with big significance.  This is where Mary got the news from Angel Gabriel that she would give birth to God’s son.  It’s also where Jesus Christ lived, breathed, grew into adulthood, and first began his ministry.  The ancient cobble-stoned streets where Jesus ran as a boy wind in a charming, impossible to navigate way.  Thankfully the locals are gracious with directions.  

Today, Nazareth has Israel’s largest Arab population and we were able to see many Muslim’s cohabitating peacefully (69% of the Arabs in Nazareth are Muslim).  However, we also got our first taste of protests, which, though safe, was unsettling.  While it was very easy to avoid the areas where the protests were held, the police use tear gas liberally on the protestors and gas guns sound disturbingly similar to gunshots. 

In Nazareth we stayed in a gorgeous convent called Rosary Sisters Guesthouse.  The rooms were simple and clean and the courtyard gardens particularly welcoming.  

Our first stop in Nazareth was the Greek Orthodox Church of the Annunciation, which is built where the Greek tradition believes Gabriel visited Mary while she was visiting a well.  The ornate decorations were gorgeous throughout the small church.  

Our second stop was the Synagogue Church, an ancient room that was originally the synagogue where Jesus read from the scrolls of Isaiah, and first proclaimed Himself as the Son of God.  Besides it being interesting to see where Ancient Jews worshipped, it was an incredible feeling to stand inside a room where Jesus once stood. 

Our next stop was to a church dedicated to Joseph, which is built over the carpentry workshop where Saint Joseph worked.  We loved seeing a tribute to the man God trusted to raise His son, and the ruins of the carpentry workshop are possible to view as well.

The last stop in Nazareth was the Church of the Annunciation, which is where the Catholic Church believes the annunciation took place.  Wow.  We loved a modern take on classic church architecture (not something that gets said often!).  The massive building lets in tons of light and countries from around the world sent in artwork depicting Mary to honor the site.  The different pieces showcase hundreds of different cultures, but blend beautifully.  Together, they create one of the most interesting churches we’ve ever seen.  It was also one of the few churches we saw in Israel that celebrated our differences instead of showcasing our divisions (more on that later). 

From Nazareth, we visited the Sea of Galilee, which is the area where Jesus taught some of his most significant messages and performed many miracles in his ministry.  The first place we visited was a church built over the site where Jesus delivered the Sermon on the Mount.  This sermon was a biggy—it included the Beatitudes, the Lord’s Prayer, and other groundbreaking lessons that revolutionized the mindset of the day.  Jesus told his followers to be the light of the world; to turn the other cheek; build their lives on the rock of God; to love their enemies; to ask, seek, and knock; and more.  The gorgeous grounds overlook the Sea of Galilee and the garden holds quotes from that monumental message.  It was easy to imagine the crowds that gathered to hear Jesus that day and the stillness that must have held them as He changed their world.

Second, we visited two different places where Jesus, instead of turning the listening crowd of five thousand away, fed them with only a few loaves of bread and a few fish.  Both churches have the original rock that Jesus used to bless the meal.  

One of the best parts about these churches is that we could get close to the Sea of Galilee.  A church built by man cannot do justice to Jesus' presence or the miracles performed.  But the natural beauty of the Sea of Galilee perfectly praises the wonders that it has seen.  Plus, while sites can be disputed, the Sea of Galilee has been there for thousands of years.  It’s definitely where it is supposed to be!

An important note:  It’s difficult for us to believe that the exact places from the Bible could be identifiable 2,000 years later and, without prior identification, they would be.  But in the 4th century AD, Constantine sent his mother, Saint Helena, to the Holy Land to search out the important spots in Jesus’ ministry.  Churches were built (Jesus was a pretty big deal then as well!) and those spots have been the same ever since. 

After the churches, we headed to the ruins of the ancient town of Capharnaum, which was the center city of Jesus' ministry and the site of many of his miracles.  It's possible to see the 2,000 year old ruins of Peter's house and study the stonework of Jesus' day.

Our last stop in our tour of the Sea of Galilee was the Jordan River, which is where John’s ministry took place and where Jesus was baptized.  Many people choose to the baptized here as well—celebrities like the late Whitney Houston even made the trip! 

In Nazareth, we hitched a ride with a friendly Italian named Moreno, who would become one of our favorite travel associates, and headed to the center of the world: Jerusalem.  Teaser: WOW. 

Our amazing new friend Moreno!

See the full Gallery here!



Israel, an Introduction

Israel is the mecca for us.  Its history is long, deep, and full of a turmoil that continues today.  There's no wonder that the land is fought over so viciously: it is precious and, to many, worth the greatest price.  We feel honored to have walked on the streets, gazed at the hills, and even stood in the places where the events took place that literally give our life its meaning.

Unfortunately, the land of Abraham is full of us measly men and women and the imperfections reflect that.  But these faults don’t diminish Israel’s value.  In fact, they create a desperate desire in all hearts to preserve the land and the history that it holds.  We’ll try to relay the depth and breadth of our awe as we walk you through our remarkable stay in the Land of All Lands. 

Before we get into our Israeli itinerary, we should discuss the border.  After Africa, Egypt, and Jordan, we were very relieved to be in a more westernized country.  Ryan almost kissed every person at the border crossing, and he kept saying “We are really happy to be here,” like a crazy person.

Blakely was pretty excited too.

The first thing we noticed was that soldiers abound.  The second thing we noticed was the women soldiers, which after Egypt and Jordan, was a stark though welcome contrast.  All of the border soldiers were impeccably uniformed and frankly good-looking, and they hold their weapons at the ready.  The sight of soldiers is one that will carry through all of Israel and they carry their automatic weapons visibly.  

 

Lastly, we went to Israel in a time when tension between Israel’s Palestinian population and Jewish population was escalating.  While this was worrisome, we had no issue avoiding the protests or violence.  Israel’s citizens heavily depend on tourism and no one, on either side, wants a tourist harmed because the repercussions would severely damage their economy.  We never felt threatened.  Instead, we were troubled that such a magnificent country is torn apart with complicated and seemingly unsolvable issues.

Since our time in Israel was jam packed, we’ve divided the posts by region and that, to some degree, will separate what religion each post focuses on (the exception, obviously, being Jerusalem where Christianity, Islam, and Judaism all rein).  We were overwhelmed with wonderment for all of the different religious sites in Jerusalem.  And, with all my heart, I wish what we share wouldn’t drive us apart, but instead would bring us together. 

More to come.  Until then, here are some of our favorite pictures.

Our sunrise bike tour had us a little loopy.

Our Road trip through Jordan

Jordan shouldn't exist the way it does.  It shares borders with some of the craziest countries in the news: Egypt, Iraq, Saudi Arabia, Israel, and Syria.  And yet it handles the refugees and violence at every border with patience, and sometimes even a dry sense of humor.  It has a peaceful monarch who the Jordanian people love, who handles matters of state responsibly and is a leader who foreign governments respect.  In all, it’s the perfect halfway mark in our Middle Eastern tour.

First thing we loved: the roads are safe and well organized.  As you drive, there are security stops every half hour with armed guards in impeccable uniforms.  They check your passport, and when they hand it back, they smile and say, “Welcome to Jordan.”  Why, thank you!

In celebration of these great conditions, we rented a car and explored to our heart’s delight.  We skipped the capital city Amman for the smaller and more interesting Madaba.  We stayed with the charming and incredibly helpful Chef Odeh at The Black Iris Hotel.  Odeh knows everything you need to do and he can organize the perfect itinerary.  Along with being a fabulous shopping spot (which we’ll get to later!), Madaba prides itself on the peaceful relations between its large Christian population and Muslim population.  Lastly, Madaba’s central location makes it the best jumping off point for the country’s top sights!

First up:  The Wadi Mujib Siq, which has a fun hour-long hike up-river to a waterfall.  As you scramble over rocks and swim through pools, crane your neck up to the towering siq walls around you.

Next, we headed to the famed Dead Sea.  Whether the water and mud actually have any healing powers is up for discussion.  We certainly didn’t feel anything but dehydrated (though Ryan claimed fluency in Gaelic, the effects wore off).  Regardless, the Dead Sea can’t be missed and the buoyancy you feel while swimming is remarkable.  Warning:  Avoid the floating Russian tourists that soak for hours.

Fact: The Dead Sea is Dying.

After our float, we went to Mount Nebo which is where Moses looked upon the Promised Land for the first time.  After standing on top, it makes perfect sense.  The dry air allows sight over great distances to create a remarkable and humbling vista.  Mount Nebo is also where Moses's body was laid to rest (though the exact location of his body is unknown).

Our last sight was in Madaba proper—it’s the Church of St. George, which has a gorgeous mosaic floor that is a map from 600 A.D.  It is the oldest original map of the Holy Land and its depiction of Jerusalem is especially impressive. 

We moved on from Madaba for the main attraction: Petra.  On the way, we drove along the beautiful King’s Highway and we stopped at the impressive Kerak Castle, which was a Crusader fortress in the 1100s.  It’s one of the largest castles in the Middle East and so much fun to explore!  The views aren’t too bad either…

Finally, we made it to Petra.  Blakely treated herself to a cooking class with Petra Kitchen on our first night.  It was a blast.  The food was delicious, the chefs were entertaining, the other guests fun, and the atmosphere warm. 

In Petra, we stayed with wonderful and kind host Mosleh at his creatively named hotel, Cleopetra.  The rooms are simple and clean, but what makes this place exceptional is the host.  Mosleh is exactly what you want in a host and we’re so grateful to have met him!

Petra is a huge park full of ancient tombs.  “The Treasury” is the most iconic building, though by no means the only highlight.  But before you can even enter Petra, you must pass through the siq entrance that leads you through a natural, twenty-minute build up to the highlight.  Then, around a rock crevice, you see it.  A gorgeous façade carved into rose-gold rock. 

Exploring Petra is an all day affair (two or more days if you’re lucky).  Start your days early and enjoy when the crowds disperse after the Treasury.  It’s as if you’re discovering the ancient city on your own!

Our favorite was the hike to the Monastery.  The steep, 45-minute climb was well-worth it!  It is magnificent!

After Petra, we drove to Wadi Rum.  We partnered with Rum Stars and the owner Ahmed treated us more as honored guests than clients!  We explored the desert in the day and hiked, climbed, and even sand boarded through the gorgeous terrain.  We had no idea deserts could be so beautiful, or so fun!

Picture from the top!

Almost made it!

Victory!

After our day exploring, we spent the night at the Rum Stars Bedouin Camp.  We enjoyed a traditional Jordanian feast (where the food is buried with a fire beneath the sand for hours until it is tender and delicious!), we snuggled into one of Ahmed's cozy Bedouin tents for a well-deserved night rest.  Who knew a desert could treat us so well!

Our last night in Jordan, we headed back to visit Chef Odeh in Madaba where we had a couple more things to check off our list.  Not sites this time, these attractions were purely commercial.  By recommendation, we headed to Yosef’s Shop around the corner.  Yosef partners with the women in neighboring villages to produce hand-made textiles in different local styles.  Not only is Yosef fascinating to talk with (our shopping excursion quickly turned into a coffee treat), he provides employment to hundreds of women, and promotes their continued tradition of weaving.

Our time in Jordan was far too short, but Israel was calling!  Next up: Nazareth!

A Tour of "Modern" Cairo and Alexandria

When we arrived back in Cairo, we took a break from ancient temples to focus on the Cairo of AD (modern by our new standards!).  We visited the breathtaking Muhammad Ali Mosque that has gorgeous domes covered in alabaster.  Yes, marble!  (Side note for the sports fans: The mosque is named for Muhammad Ali of Egypt, whose same name was later used by the great American boxer, born Cassius Clay, upon his conversion to Islam.  So no, they didn't build a Mosque in honor of an American boxer!) 

We sat inside the Mosque as our guide told us about the Muslim traditions.  We loved this unique glimpse into Islam and learning more about Islamic beliefs and perspectives.  And wow the mosque is gorgeous!  If the domes weren’t enough, the veranda outside has breathtaking views of Cairo.

Afterwards we visited The Hanging Church in Coptic Cairo, which has a history starting in 300AD.  It is the seat for the Coptic Pope, which we knew very little about until now!  

After this, we went to one of the best museums on Earth: The Egyptian Museum.  Don’t be fooled, it isn’t the best museum in appearance or how it’s run.  As we've seen throughout this troubled country, Egypt doesn’t have the resources to maintain such an incredible museum.  Cats wander around, there isn’t any air conditioning, many of the descriptive labels on ancient treasures are outdated and handwritten.  Also, there have been multiple burglaries and an alarm system wasn't installed until recently. 

But despite all of this, the museum is world class (which shows just how impressive the the contents are).  It houses some of the oldest and most precious relics of ancient Egypt and therefore our world.  Pharaoh antiquities, ancient papyrus scrolls, mummies, and contents of King Tut’s tomb are just a few examples of the treasures found here.  Definitely get a tour guide!  Pictures aren't allowed, but check some out if you want your mind to be blown.  And thankfully, a new museum is under construction that will do justice to these precious relics.

Lastly, we went to the famous Khan Al-Khalili bazaar.  We recommend taking a lap and then retreating somewhere for a calming cup of tea.  The piles of goods are overwhelming and Egyptian vendors are very aggressive.  Don’t make eye contact and ignore calls of “Where are you from?”!

For our last day of touring, we took a day-trip to famous Alexandria.  While its ancient glory has certainly faded, Alexandria continues to be a gorgeous seaside city with tons of history to see. 

We first stopped to view the ancient Roman ruins at Pompey’s Pillar and the Roman Amphitheater.  We could’ve been in Rome!  Just like the ruins in Rome, these ruins are smack in the middle of a very modern city to make a fascinating contrast.  We had no idea this wealth of Ancient Roman ruins were in Egypt.  It’s clear now that Egypt has it all!

We next visited one of the seven wonders of the Middle Ages: the Catacombs of Kom al-Shoqafa.  These tombs are fascinating because, due to their time period of, the decorations blend Roman, Greek, Christian, and Egyptian religions and cultures.

Source

Next, we stopped by for a quick seaside walk to see Fort Quaitbey.  We happened to be in Alexandria during a holiday so we got to witness hundreds of Arab families on vacation at the beach!  It was wonderful to see, but being the only foreigners caused a bit too much attention for our liking.  Everyone is wonderfully friendly, but we attract stares, points, and many people will take pictures without asking permission. 

This is the most inoffensive version of the photo taking phenomenon.

Our last stop in Alexandria was the Alexandria Library.  Unfortunately, while the modern architecture and displays are well done, today’s version of the library simply can’t compete with the Ancient Wonder that held the treasures of the world.  Why oh why did it have to burn!!!

So ends our time in Egypt proper.  Our experience was as full as one could be and, to be honest, we left feeling exhausted and overwhelmed with all of it.  Our heads were crammed so full of new facts and memories, we needed a little vacation to empty them again.  Luckily, Egypt has one of the best retreats in the world: Sharm el Sheikh on the Red Sea.

For our vacation, there was no question on where to stay:  the gorgeous Four Seasons of Sharm el Sheikh was the place for us!  The service, the rooms, the diving, wow, wow, WOW!  We’ll let the pictures say the rest and only say it was the perfect end to our trip through Egypt.

To see more images, check out the gallery here!  Next up: Jordan!

Cruising Down the Nile

Since life in ancient Egypt depended on the Nile, that is where most of the ruins can be found.  Not a bad way to travel! 

First, our boat cruised down to Edfu.  The Temple of Edfu is dedicated to the falcon god Horus (Ryan’s second favorite god.  Don’t get him started on Imhotep...).  Inside, you can see the statue where Egyptians believed Horus lived.  Every year, Horus’s wife’s statue (a goddess named Hathor who had a cow head) was brought to him and they were left alone in the temple to consummate their marriage.

Unfortunately, many of the faces on the reliefs were defaced by the early Coptic Christians.

Next, we went to the Temple of Kom Ombo.  This temple is interesting because additions were made to it in the Roman period so it’s a mix of ancient Egyptian and Roman architecture.  Plus, it has a museum attached to it where you can see mummified crocodiles!

The next morning, we had a casual 3:30AM wakeup call to join the daily police convoy across the vast dessert to visit amazing Abu Simbel.  Yes, it was worth it.  These two gigantic rock temples are so precious that in 1968 they were relocated 200 meters stone-by-stone to save them from the rising Nile.

Later that day, we visited one more temple , which was one of our favorites: Philae Temple.  It’s located on an island and dedicated to love.  What more could you want?

Our last activity was one of the most fascinating: we sailed in a traditional felucca (Egyptian sailboat) to visit a Nubian village, meet their chief, and have tea in his home.  The sail was absolutely fabulous and the Nile glistened as the sunset.  Seeing a real Nubian village was incredible!  If a little awkward.  It was a delight to talk to locals and see their way of life.  Even if holding the pet crocodiles was a bit more than we bargained for!

Our Nile cruise ended and next we flew back up to Cairo for more sights (you didn’t think we were done did you?)!

That's What We Did on our Nile cruise.  Click Here to read What We Learned.