What We Did

The Christian Sites of Galilee

Our first stop in Israel was Nazareth, a small city with big significance.  This is where Mary got the news from Angel Gabriel that she would give birth to God’s son.  It’s also where Jesus Christ lived, breathed, grew into adulthood, and first began his ministry.  The ancient cobble-stoned streets where Jesus ran as a boy wind in a charming, impossible to navigate way.  Thankfully the locals are gracious with directions.  

Today, Nazareth has Israel’s largest Arab population and we were able to see many Muslim’s cohabitating peacefully (69% of the Arabs in Nazareth are Muslim).  However, we also got our first taste of protests, which, though safe, was unsettling.  While it was very easy to avoid the areas where the protests were held, the police use tear gas liberally on the protestors and gas guns sound disturbingly similar to gunshots. 

In Nazareth we stayed in a gorgeous convent called Rosary Sisters Guesthouse.  The rooms were simple and clean and the courtyard gardens particularly welcoming.  

Our first stop in Nazareth was the Greek Orthodox Church of the Annunciation, which is built where the Greek tradition believes Gabriel visited Mary while she was visiting a well.  The ornate decorations were gorgeous throughout the small church.  

Our second stop was the Synagogue Church, an ancient room that was originally the synagogue where Jesus read from the scrolls of Isaiah, and first proclaimed Himself as the Son of God.  Besides it being interesting to see where Ancient Jews worshipped, it was an incredible feeling to stand inside a room where Jesus once stood. 

Our next stop was to a church dedicated to Joseph, which is built over the carpentry workshop where Saint Joseph worked.  We loved seeing a tribute to the man God trusted to raise His son, and the ruins of the carpentry workshop are possible to view as well.

The last stop in Nazareth was the Church of the Annunciation, which is where the Catholic Church believes the annunciation took place.  Wow.  We loved a modern take on classic church architecture (not something that gets said often!).  The massive building lets in tons of light and countries from around the world sent in artwork depicting Mary to honor the site.  The different pieces showcase hundreds of different cultures, but blend beautifully.  Together, they create one of the most interesting churches we’ve ever seen.  It was also one of the few churches we saw in Israel that celebrated our differences instead of showcasing our divisions (more on that later). 

From Nazareth, we visited the Sea of Galilee, which is the area where Jesus taught some of his most significant messages and performed many miracles in his ministry.  The first place we visited was a church built over the site where Jesus delivered the Sermon on the Mount.  This sermon was a biggy—it included the Beatitudes, the Lord’s Prayer, and other groundbreaking lessons that revolutionized the mindset of the day.  Jesus told his followers to be the light of the world; to turn the other cheek; build their lives on the rock of God; to love their enemies; to ask, seek, and knock; and more.  The gorgeous grounds overlook the Sea of Galilee and the garden holds quotes from that monumental message.  It was easy to imagine the crowds that gathered to hear Jesus that day and the stillness that must have held them as He changed their world.

Second, we visited two different places where Jesus, instead of turning the listening crowd of five thousand away, fed them with only a few loaves of bread and a few fish.  Both churches have the original rock that Jesus used to bless the meal.  

One of the best parts about these churches is that we could get close to the Sea of Galilee.  A church built by man cannot do justice to Jesus' presence or the miracles performed.  But the natural beauty of the Sea of Galilee perfectly praises the wonders that it has seen.  Plus, while sites can be disputed, the Sea of Galilee has been there for thousands of years.  It’s definitely where it is supposed to be!

An important note:  It’s difficult for us to believe that the exact places from the Bible could be identifiable 2,000 years later and, without prior identification, they would be.  But in the 4th century AD, Constantine sent his mother, Saint Helena, to the Holy Land to search out the important spots in Jesus’ ministry.  Churches were built (Jesus was a pretty big deal then as well!) and those spots have been the same ever since. 

After the churches, we headed to the ruins of the ancient town of Capharnaum, which was the center city of Jesus' ministry and the site of many of his miracles.  It's possible to see the 2,000 year old ruins of Peter's house and study the stonework of Jesus' day.

Our last stop in our tour of the Sea of Galilee was the Jordan River, which is where John’s ministry took place and where Jesus was baptized.  Many people choose to the baptized here as well—celebrities like the late Whitney Houston even made the trip! 

In Nazareth, we hitched a ride with a friendly Italian named Moreno, who would become one of our favorite travel associates, and headed to the center of the world: Jerusalem.  Teaser: WOW. 

Our amazing new friend Moreno!

See the full Gallery here!



Our Road trip through Jordan

Jordan shouldn't exist the way it does.  It shares borders with some of the craziest countries in the news: Egypt, Iraq, Saudi Arabia, Israel, and Syria.  And yet it handles the refugees and violence at every border with patience, and sometimes even a dry sense of humor.  It has a peaceful monarch who the Jordanian people love, who handles matters of state responsibly and is a leader who foreign governments respect.  In all, it’s the perfect halfway mark in our Middle Eastern tour.

First thing we loved: the roads are safe and well organized.  As you drive, there are security stops every half hour with armed guards in impeccable uniforms.  They check your passport, and when they hand it back, they smile and say, “Welcome to Jordan.”  Why, thank you!

In celebration of these great conditions, we rented a car and explored to our heart’s delight.  We skipped the capital city Amman for the smaller and more interesting Madaba.  We stayed with the charming and incredibly helpful Chef Odeh at The Black Iris Hotel.  Odeh knows everything you need to do and he can organize the perfect itinerary.  Along with being a fabulous shopping spot (which we’ll get to later!), Madaba prides itself on the peaceful relations between its large Christian population and Muslim population.  Lastly, Madaba’s central location makes it the best jumping off point for the country’s top sights!

First up:  The Wadi Mujib Siq, which has a fun hour-long hike up-river to a waterfall.  As you scramble over rocks and swim through pools, crane your neck up to the towering siq walls around you.

Next, we headed to the famed Dead Sea.  Whether the water and mud actually have any healing powers is up for discussion.  We certainly didn’t feel anything but dehydrated (though Ryan claimed fluency in Gaelic, the effects wore off).  Regardless, the Dead Sea can’t be missed and the buoyancy you feel while swimming is remarkable.  Warning:  Avoid the floating Russian tourists that soak for hours.

Fact: The Dead Sea is Dying.

After our float, we went to Mount Nebo which is where Moses looked upon the Promised Land for the first time.  After standing on top, it makes perfect sense.  The dry air allows sight over great distances to create a remarkable and humbling vista.  Mount Nebo is also where Moses's body was laid to rest (though the exact location of his body is unknown).

Our last sight was in Madaba proper—it’s the Church of St. George, which has a gorgeous mosaic floor that is a map from 600 A.D.  It is the oldest original map of the Holy Land and its depiction of Jerusalem is especially impressive. 

We moved on from Madaba for the main attraction: Petra.  On the way, we drove along the beautiful King’s Highway and we stopped at the impressive Kerak Castle, which was a Crusader fortress in the 1100s.  It’s one of the largest castles in the Middle East and so much fun to explore!  The views aren’t too bad either…

Finally, we made it to Petra.  Blakely treated herself to a cooking class with Petra Kitchen on our first night.  It was a blast.  The food was delicious, the chefs were entertaining, the other guests fun, and the atmosphere warm. 

In Petra, we stayed with wonderful and kind host Mosleh at his creatively named hotel, Cleopetra.  The rooms are simple and clean, but what makes this place exceptional is the host.  Mosleh is exactly what you want in a host and we’re so grateful to have met him!

Petra is a huge park full of ancient tombs.  “The Treasury” is the most iconic building, though by no means the only highlight.  But before you can even enter Petra, you must pass through the siq entrance that leads you through a natural, twenty-minute build up to the highlight.  Then, around a rock crevice, you see it.  A gorgeous façade carved into rose-gold rock. 

Exploring Petra is an all day affair (two or more days if you’re lucky).  Start your days early and enjoy when the crowds disperse after the Treasury.  It’s as if you’re discovering the ancient city on your own!

Our favorite was the hike to the Monastery.  The steep, 45-minute climb was well-worth it!  It is magnificent!

After Petra, we drove to Wadi Rum.  We partnered with Rum Stars and the owner Ahmed treated us more as honored guests than clients!  We explored the desert in the day and hiked, climbed, and even sand boarded through the gorgeous terrain.  We had no idea deserts could be so beautiful, or so fun!

Picture from the top!

Almost made it!

Victory!

After our day exploring, we spent the night at the Rum Stars Bedouin Camp.  We enjoyed a traditional Jordanian feast (where the food is buried with a fire beneath the sand for hours until it is tender and delicious!), we snuggled into one of Ahmed's cozy Bedouin tents for a well-deserved night rest.  Who knew a desert could treat us so well!

Our last night in Jordan, we headed back to visit Chef Odeh in Madaba where we had a couple more things to check off our list.  Not sites this time, these attractions were purely commercial.  By recommendation, we headed to Yosef’s Shop around the corner.  Yosef partners with the women in neighboring villages to produce hand-made textiles in different local styles.  Not only is Yosef fascinating to talk with (our shopping excursion quickly turned into a coffee treat), he provides employment to hundreds of women, and promotes their continued tradition of weaving.

Our time in Jordan was far too short, but Israel was calling!  Next up: Nazareth!

Cruising Down the Nile

Since life in ancient Egypt depended on the Nile, that is where most of the ruins can be found.  Not a bad way to travel! 

First, our boat cruised down to Edfu.  The Temple of Edfu is dedicated to the falcon god Horus (Ryan’s second favorite god.  Don’t get him started on Imhotep...).  Inside, you can see the statue where Egyptians believed Horus lived.  Every year, Horus’s wife’s statue (a goddess named Hathor who had a cow head) was brought to him and they were left alone in the temple to consummate their marriage.

Unfortunately, many of the faces on the reliefs were defaced by the early Coptic Christians.

Next, we went to the Temple of Kom Ombo.  This temple is interesting because additions were made to it in the Roman period so it’s a mix of ancient Egyptian and Roman architecture.  Plus, it has a museum attached to it where you can see mummified crocodiles!

The next morning, we had a casual 3:30AM wakeup call to join the daily police convoy across the vast dessert to visit amazing Abu Simbel.  Yes, it was worth it.  These two gigantic rock temples are so precious that in 1968 they were relocated 200 meters stone-by-stone to save them from the rising Nile.

Later that day, we visited one more temple , which was one of our favorites: Philae Temple.  It’s located on an island and dedicated to love.  What more could you want?

Our last activity was one of the most fascinating: we sailed in a traditional felucca (Egyptian sailboat) to visit a Nubian village, meet their chief, and have tea in his home.  The sail was absolutely fabulous and the Nile glistened as the sunset.  Seeing a real Nubian village was incredible!  If a little awkward.  It was a delight to talk to locals and see their way of life.  Even if holding the pet crocodiles was a bit more than we bargained for!

Our Nile cruise ended and next we flew back up to Cairo for more sights (you didn’t think we were done did you?)!

That's What We Did on our Nile cruise.  Click Here to read What We Learned.

Luxor, Ancient Egypt's Masterpiece

Luxor, also known as Thebes, was one of the most important cities in ancient Egypt.  As such, it holds many of the most important temples and tombs.

First, a note on ancient Egyptian temples: Given their ancient construction, the history of these temples spans thousands of years with each generation influencing them.  The result is a wonderfully complex and diverse structure with architecture, stonework, and dedications from many different cultures and religions including Egyptian, Greek, French, Roman, Christian, and Muslim.  By walking through these structures, you walk through history.

Karnak Temple is one of the best examples of this.  Its construction spanned over 30 pharaohs who wanted to leave their mark, plus it has a temple inside the complex built by Alexander the Great.  We wandered around the colossal columns (with beams estimated to weigh 70 tons!) and our fantastic guide Aboudi brought this history to life.

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Next was Luxor Temple.  We opted to view Luxor temple at dusk and then stay to see it lit up at night.  This perspective somehow made the temple even more beautiful and mysterious, which is something we didn’t think was possible!

Luxor Temple is where many believe pharaohs would be crowned.   Alexander the Great even claimed to be crowned there!  Our favorite part was the mosque that sits on top of the ruins.  The mosque was built before excavations on the temple were complete and, once the temple was excavated, locals vehemently opposed tearing the mosque down.  Today, the mosque continues to operate and we listened to the evening call to prayer while studying a Ramses II statue by twilight!

The next day, we made a quick stop by the Colossi of Memnon—two enormous statues that stand as 3000-year-old sentinels for the ancient treasures of Luxor.  Next, we sped on to the Medinet Habu Temple.

Medinet Habu Temple, like many Ancient Egyptian temples, resembles a city more than a temple.  It also still has original colors preserved on its ceilings!  Along with architectural and sculptural beauties, it has a gorgeous relief of a battle of Ramses III.  It may have been the Egyptian heat, but when you stare at it, the characters seem to move!

Our next stop was one of our favorites:  The Mortuary Temple of Hatshepsut.  Hatshepsut was the most powerful of ancient Egypt’s female pharaohs.  The temple is built into the cliff-side and it has gorgeous stone reliefs that explain stories even two Westerners can understand.  Unfortunately, many of the reliefs were destroyed by Hatshepsut’s stepson after her death.  Later, the temple was used for building materials for a Christian monastery.  To continue the tragic tale, this temple was also the site of the appalling massacre in 1997 where Islamic Extremists killed 67 people, mainly tourists, visiting the site.   Our talented guide, Aboudi, used the destroyed reliefs as a moving illustration for the useless and tragic destruction in which we humans continue to engage.

We then went to the famed Valley of the Kings.  After learning that pyramids were easy targets for tomb raiders, pharaohs of the New Kingdom opted to be buried in the desert valley in hidden tombs.  63 tombs have been excavated and we believe some haven’t been found yet.  These temples contain the earthly treasures of the pharaoh and provide clues as to daily life and rituals of the ancients. Even with modern technology, the discovery of tombs comes down to chance which leads to the assumption that there remain many unexcavated.  Modern scanning is no match for the limestone that encases these mysteries. 

We visited four tombs including that of King Tut.  King Tut’s tomb was broken into along with his neighbors, but his treasures remain untouched because of the ingenius hiding techniques of his tomb.  However, after excavation, his treasures were transported to the Egyptian Museum where, in the 2011 Revolution, looters sadly got away with a few of them.

Pictures weren't allowed so click the caption for the photo source!

Ramses IV Tomb was one of our favorites.

The entrances were daunting but gorgeous.


Lastly, we visited an alabaster factory and learned how to tell the difference between authentic handmade products and machine made imitations (hold it up to the light—you should be able to see through it!).  We even tried our hand on the techniques! 

With our heads full of new knowledge, we left Luxor for our fantastic cruise down the Nile!  Details on that to come!  In the meantime, Click Here to read What We Learned in Cairo and Luxor.

A Tour of Crazy Cairo

Egypt is a magnificent mess.  With breathtaking landscape and a glorious history, it is a destination that everyone should visit in their lifetime.  Unfortunately, modern issues overshadow its past splendor.  The recent plane crash solidifies its tumultuous reputation and it will be years before tourism is back on track.  We’re thankful we were able to view these wonders and grateful to the many Egyptian people who kept us safe during our stay and infused us with enthusiasm for their remarkable country.

To try and see as much as possible safely, we enlisted the help of Encounters Travel who hooked us up with an itinerary of a lifetime!  Their thorough safety procedures sealed the deal for us and their local guides were knowledgeable, passionate, and brought a unique perspective to both modern and ancient Egypt.  Hold onto your hats and travel with us back through time. 

We arrived in Cairo and got settled into the Mena House Hotel.  What a history and what a view!  The hotel was originally a sultan’s palace and it looks the part!  If that doesn’t impress you, the view will.

We began our tour just outside Cairo in a city called Memphis.  This was an appropriate introduction because Memphis was the capital of the Old Kingdom (3000 BC) and today has an incredible open air museum that houses a gigantic statue of Ramses II (he’s arguably the most powerful of all the pharaohs ever.  So, a pretty big deal). 

Next, we headed northwest of Memphis to the home of the Saqqara necropolis, a National Park and the burial ground of the Old Kingdom.  We saw the famous Step Pyramid of Djoser, which is the oldest complete stone building complex in the world.  At Saqqara, we also visited our first tomb!  And WOW.  Covered in hieroglyphics from 5,000 years ago, it was humbling to see.

After a morning building up our early pyramid knowledge, we were ready to visit the Great Pyramids of Giza. Despite all of Egypt’s ancient treasures, these structures steal the show.  They are the only remaining Ancient Wonders of the World and left us speechless (no easy task).  How can stone be so gorgeous?

Next to the Great Pyramids is, you guessed it, the Great Sphinx.  Wowza.  There are many a sphinx in Egypt, but this one overshadows all others.  Its Arabic name translates to "The Terrifying One" and it stands as a monstrous guard to the Great Pyramids.  It is built out of a single piece of limestone and is the largest statue of this type in the world.  

We were exhausted and dusty after our whirlwind tour of Cairo, but there was no time to rest!  Next up, one of our favorite cities in Egypt.  Luxor! 

That's What We Did in Cairo.  Click Here to read What We Learned!

The Great Migration: Safari on Steroids

The border of Kenya and Tanzania holds a plethora of safari options.  The most interesting to us?  The Ngorongoro Crater for the scenery, and the Maasai Mara for the infamous Great Migration.

The Ngorongoro crater is deservedly a UNESCO heritage site and a natural wonder.  If the crater itself wasn’t enough of a draw, inside the crater is home to tons of game animals including the Big Five.  We saw lions, elephants, giraffes and even the rare and endangered rhinos!

Stretch!!!!

The biggest show for us, however, was the supreme safari of the world: The Great Migration.  The Migration is one of the most impressive natural phenomenons in the world—about 1.7 million wildebeest, 260,000 zebra, and 470,000 gazelle follow water up to the concentrated land in Maasai Mara, Kenya.  The precarious journey is a highlight for both the predators and spectators alike! 

Wildebeests migrate in a straight line and you can see it stretch across the entire horizon!

When you pick your destination for the Migration, it all depends on timing and where the herds will be.  That made the Maasai Mara the place for us.  We found the fabulous game lodge Aruba Mara to make the experience complete.

Wow.  With all of the wildebeests and other prey, the predators come out in droves. We saw a cheetah and her babies eating a kill—twice!  We saw multiple lion prides, a family of leopards, giraffes, elephants, massive crocodiles, and tons of others!

It was the perfect finale to our safari experience and certainly the highlight.  A huge thanks to Gerdi and her Aruba Mara team for making our Great Migration experience everything we hoped.

With all of the good given to us, it’s time to give back.  Next up: Volunteering with New Hope in Kenya.  In the meantime, Click Here to read What We Learned in the Maasai Mara.

Zanzibar, We Love You

To get to Zanzibar, we took a three-day train (which we aren't ready to talk about) from central Zambia to the coast of Tanzania and then ferried to the fabulous islands.  Zanzibar is an archipelago off the coast that has been a long time trading port where Africa, Arabia, India, and the Far East meet.  These influences continue today to make a fascinating place for architecture, food, and people.   

Zanzibar is 99% Muslim and the call to prayer rings out for everyone to hear.  Stone Town, the main city, is a maze of small cobblestoned streets where it’s better to spend the day getting lost rather than to worry about directions.

The Stone Town spice market is a delight to the senses and, not surprisingly, the food is as well!  Take a break from the sun on the reclining cushions at Monsoon where they serve local cuisine with charm.  To top off the day, every night there is a food stall market by the harbor.  Blakely particularly recommends the Zanzibar Pizza!

Laid back!

His face is my favorite.  He's like "Who is this crazy lady?"

We stayed at the recommended Hiliki House in Stone Town and the manager, Aboud, was a wonderful host.  Plus, the breakfast is a reason to wake up in the morning.

After Stone Town, we headed to the beach for some much-needed R&R.  There are a variety of beach village options depending on your mood.  We selected Jambiani which is fairly quiet with beautiful beaches.  The water is one-thousand shades of blue so we dove twice to fully appreciate the shades!

To get to Jambiani, we took a traditional dalla dalla!

Teeeensy bit cramped!

The tide in Zanzibar is a marvel!  Everyday on the Eastern beaches, low tide and high tide expand and retract by about a mile.  This is because Zanzibar is a coral island and very flat so small changes in the sea level create huge movements in the waterline.  It makes for perfect strolling and exploring!  The local women harvest seaweed and fisherman’s boats travel around the many lagoons.  

Now it's floating...

Now it's not!

Zanzibar was exactly what we needed to rest up for more safaris!

That's what we did.  Click Here to read What We Learned.  And see all of the pictures from the train ride and Zanzibar here!

Our Victoria Falls Adventure

Victoria Falls is the largest waterfall in the world and stretches 5,604 ft across Zambia and Zimbabwe.  While the Zimbabwe side offers much better views, Zambia has more adrenaline activities.  The only answer was to do both! 

The Zimbabwe side of the Falls offers a few activities like zip lining and bungee jumping.  We opted for the Gorge Swing.  It was just what we hoped—the gorge was gorgeous and the drop was terrifying!  We decided to go together on the tandem swing so we could squeeze each other on the way down.  The swing starts with about six seconds of free-fall (which feels like six years).    Then as you swing, you get to take in the beautiful surroundings for an otherworldly experience.  It was breathtaking in every way!  Words won’t justify it so we recommend you check out the pics and watch our video!

Real skeptical...

But we did it!

The Zambia side held two attractions for us- The Micro-Lite and Devil’s Pool.

The Micro-Lite is a motorized paraglider that flies over the Falls.  It is gorgeous and so fun!   The only downside is cameras aren’t allowed, but each paraglider is fixed with a GoPro so your ride can be remembered.

Devil’s Pool- Only available during the dry season when the swell of the falls is low, Devil’s Pool is a natural infinity pool at the top of the falls.  You first ride a boat to Livingstone Island (“Island” being a broad term for the small patch of land closest to the pool) and then swim (YES, SWIM) across part of the falls to get to Devil’s Pool.  The excursion comes with breakfast, lunch, or sundowners.  We opted for sundowners, as a cocktail would be necessary after the swim!

"Just jump!" our guide said.

The view over the edge!

Oh yea, we're getting along great!

So ends our Victoria Falls Adventure.  Click Here for the full photo gallery.  Next up: Tanzania!

Botswana or Bust- The Okavango and Chobe

The Okavango Delta and Chobe National Park are two of Botswana’s greatest treasures.  We decided to do both and had some incredible experiences (and learned a lot too!). 

In the Okavango, we stayed at Old Bridge Backpackers and loved it.  The tents are simple and clean, the food delicious, and the views aren’t bad either.  You can even watch hippos from your lounge chair!

We decided to experience the Okavango by Kayak Safari and weren’t disappointed. Kayak Botswana boated us 30 miles deeper into the Okavango wilderness where we had a better chance to view wildlife.  The Delta is full of hippos and crocodiles (only ten feet long, don’t worry!) with chances to spot elephants and other animals as they come to the river to drink!

We set up camp deep in the Delta and our local wildlife guide, Oddie, took us on a walking safari.  Without civilization in sight or a vehicle to hide inside, we really felt close to the animals.  We tracked leopards, lions, zebra and elephants.  And we learned that nature is really cool.   We took an evening and a morning walk with Oddie and highly recommend a walking safari to acquaint yourself with tracking and an intimate perspective on the animals.

Blakely's face sums up our opinion on nature!

No camping trip is complete without a fire, but our kayak guide and cook, Jardis, went above and beyond in cuisine!  As the stars came out, we feasted while gazing at the Southern Cross, and then headed to our tent for the night.  The second day was just as eventful and we felt like we got an up-close look at the Okavango.

The next stop was Chobe National Park, which is known for having more elephants than any other park.  The elephants are also of abnormally large size and look like they’ve been stretched!  For our safari, we picked Kalahari Tours and took a three day trip into the heart of the park.  

We saw lionesses and their cubs, zebras, giraffes, and elephants galore.  We even spotted two different leopards lazing in the treetops!

The camping was a delight with great food, wonderful company, and a chorus of animal noises to sleep to every night.  We feel very lucky with our first safari experience and can’t wait until the next one!  Now, onto Victoria Falls!

That's What We Did in Botswana.  Click Here to read What We Learned.  Or Click Here for the full Botswana Photo Gallery!

Johannesburg- A City for Locals

Johannesburg is not great for tourists because there aren’t many notable attractions or worthy museums.  Plus, it has a terrible reputation for crime.  However, Jo ’Burg is home to very welcoming and warm people who’ll gladly open their lives (and even homes!) to you.  If you go to Johannesburg, we recommend you find some locals and live like them for a week (that’s what we did and it was fantastic).  Also, there are three notable attractions that would be a shame to miss.

The Apertheid Museum- An absolute must-see.  The museum tickets randomly divide patrons into non-white and white and then each "race" uses a different entrance.  For the first stage of the museum, non-whites and whites are split by a chain fence and must proceed alone.  Ryan and I were given different races and therefore separated which drove home the reality that many families were abruptly estranged when the government classified everyone by race.   The museum proceeds to use video, photography, antiques, and letters from Nelson Mandela to educate its patrons on South Africa’s long history of racial unrest.  And beneath the heartbreaking tales, the museum somehow teaches a lesson of overcoming evil and forgiveness.  The layout is a bit jumbled, but the content is superb.

Neighborhood Goods Market- Every Saturday, food stalls of all cuisines imaginable and fun local musicians crowd into a multifloor warehouse to make a market of delight.  Be warned: the market is full of locals and you’ll feel decidedly uncool.  It’s as authentic as it gets for real Jo ‘Burg life.

Now that's some Paella!

Soweto- Townships are urban areas that, from the late 19th century until the end of Apartheid, were reserved for non-whites (Black Africans and all “Coloreds”).  They’re usually located just outside cities where they could ensure a cheap workforce for the whites.  Now, many of the townships offer tours and show firsthand what life was like. 

Soweto is the largest and most famous of all of the townships and is located just outside Johannesburg.  Most of the resistance to Apertheid started here and today many cultural trends begin here.  As our tour guide put it,  “When Soweto sneezes, the whole country catches a cold!”  Plus, the name Soweto stands for SOuth WEstern TOwnship and, as New Yorkers, we love geographically informative names.

We took a bike tour through Soweto Bicycle Tours and thoroughly recommend it.  The city that was once was a demonstration of racial division and oppression now has prospered and and is proud of it’s place in history.

Trying the homemade beer!

It was Interesting!

The Wild Coast and Drakensberg

Below is the breakdown of our wonderful time in the Wild Coast.  Also, Click Here to view our Wild Coast and Drakensberg Photo Gallery!

We woke up before sunrise for the long drive from Jeffreys Bay to Coffee Bay.  As we got closer, it became apparent that we were arriving at the “Wild” coast.  The roads got dodgier and the towns shrunk to rural villages.

We arrived at Coffee Bay and decided to stay at the Coffee Shack.  Very laid back vibe with fun travelers and a close walk to the beach.  We surfed every day, hiked, enjoyed the beach and ate some of the amazing food cooked by the local chefs.

We crossed a stone path across this stream to get to breakfast and dinner every day!

Nelson Mandela curtains are an obvious must for any modern hut!

In Coffee Bay, the effect tourism has on a village is much more apparent.  The Coffee Shack makes a very conscious effort to curb the bad effects of tourism and enhance the good.  There are instructions everywhere on how to be a responsible visitor and they’ve set up a sponsorship program for secondary school scholarships.  I don’t want to spoil anything but you may soon be reading a post about how to be a more responsible traveler.  It’s just too important.

After Coffee Bay we headed to the mountains.  The Drakensberg is a region of breathtaking mountains carved many moons ago.  First stop was the Southern Berg where we stayed at Sani Lodge.  The owner, Russell, is a fascinating guy and he and his wife promote projects with the Bushmen (the indigenous population that descends from the first men of Africa) to try and encourage their economy.  It’s worth the visit just to listen to his knowledge of the area and it’s history.

In the Southern Berg we had another delight.  On a trip like ours, stuff doesn’t always work out.  But sometimes, you walk into the most charming farm cafe, get greeted like you’re family and informed that they’re just about to take today’s special, homemade lasagna, out of the oven.  Blakely almost wept.  The farm also has an art gallery, a petting zoo (for Ryan) and homemade ice cream!

After that heaven, we headed to Central Berg for the World Heritage site and the Rock Art.  We weren’t disappointed.  If the gigantic mountains weren’t enough, seeing art that is carbon dated back 5,000 years put our existence into a nicely miniscule perspective.

"I'm not sure...it could be a person.  Or a lion.  Or an antelope actually."

In Central Berg we stayed at Inkosana Lodge which has gorgeous grounds and views of the surrounding mountains.  It’s also conveniently close to Valley Bakery which has delicious sandwiches and homemade sweets.  Another favorite!

So ends our South African Road Trip.  We’ve survived the pot holes, enjoyed breathtaking nature of all types and learned so much along the way.  We’ll forever be grateful to the people of South Africa for welcoming us into their beautifully diverse home.

Next up: Johannesburg and volunteering with the Lonely Road Foundation!

That's What We Did on the Wild Coast and Drakensberg and Click Here to read What We Learned.  Or Click Here to view our Wild Coast and Drakensberg Photo Gallery!

Our Roadtrip up the Garden Route

We set out from Capetown in Betty (our Around About Car Rental and fearless companion).  This wasn’t just any old highway—we drove along Whale Route and the views were spectacular.  We stopped by Stony Point to see a huge penguin colony and then drove on to Hermanus.

In Hermanus, we stayed at the lovely Baleia Hermanus B&B.  Hermanus is known for whale watching but, since we aren’t the type who can patiently wait, we decided to take the Cliff Walk and keep our eyes peeled.  This walk runs for miles and takes you all along the rugged coast with greenery around you and the beautiful ocean views.  We even stopped by an amazing cafe called Nourish as an after walk treat!

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The next day we drove on to Cape Agulhas, the most Southern Point in Africa (and, with the cold winds whipping us, it felt it!).  It’s beautiful with a lighthouse that dates back to the 1800’s and one of the most helpful tourism departments we’ve ever met.  Morine, if you’re reading this, we love you!

We then booked it up to De Hoop National Park.  We stayed outside the park at Potterberg Guest Farm.  The owner cooked us a homemade traditional South African meal that included “bobotie.”  It’s a delicious minced beef with curry and it warmed us right up!

The next morning we hit De Hoop Nature Reserve.  This was one of our favorites.   The park has rugged beaches, huge dunes, and wildlife around every corner.  It being low season, we hardly saw a soul and it felt like we were explorers discovering the rugged coastland ourselves.

Afterwards we drove to Gansbaii- the capital for Great White Shark diving.  The reason shark’s love this area is this: Off the coast, there are two islands with a very large seal population (which happen to be Great White’s favorite meal).  The channel between the islands is called Shark Alley.  It was absolutely freezing, but we got to see some beauties and gain a new appreciation (and apprehension!) to the seas.  We even saw a whale and her pup on the way back to shore!

DO NOT COME ANY CLOSER!

After that we drove to Wilderness and stayed at The Beach House.  With gorgeous views from our cottage and a short walk to the beach, we wanted to stay forever.  

The next morning we had breakfast at a favorite called Flava Cafe.  Then we headed for adventure.  We started at Eden Adventures who outfitted us with a canoe.  We paddled up the local river to the trailhead and hiked up to a waterfall. We had the trail to ourselves again so we’re starting to feel spoiled!

After the hike we drove through Knysna and, thanks to a tip off from the locals, stopped by an amazing wood shop called Timber Village.  These craftsmen use only wood native to South Africa and partner with South African National Parks to ensure the conservation effort of their beautiful trees.  If that wasn’t cool enough, the finished products are gorgeous and we had to resist purchasing some of their furniture (it won’t fit in the pack!).  They even make custom designs to order (be still my heart!).

Next we drove on to Plet Bay in time for a goodnight sleep and then we conquered the hike at Robberg Nature Reserve.  This one is a favorite.  We hiked along their cliff peninsula blessed with caves, amazing overlooks, and Swiss Family Robinson beaches.  Oh, and whales galore!  

"I can't look at you now, I just saw a whale."

Next we drove to Tsitsikamma Forest.  This park is wonderfully clean and even has family style lodging.  We hiked through the lush and ancient forest to their beautiful suspension bridges.

Afterwards, we drove to Jeffreys Bay and stayed at the lovely Beach Music.   Jeffreys Bay is known in the surfing world for it’s “perfect wave."  Unfortunately, during a surfing competition the week before, a Great White Shark attacked a competitor on live television (don’t worry, miraculously he wasn’t injured).  The attack scared us and others into staying on the shore, plenty of surfers were out there enjoying the surf.  To complete the magic, a huge school of dolphins came to play in the waves beside the surfers.  Unfortunately, Blakely was jumping too much to take a picture so you’ll just have to trust us!

I dunno...they look like seals to us!

While at “J Bay" we ate at two favorite restaurants: Nina's Real Food for a wonderful, filling, and healthy breakfast.  Then Kitchen Windows for seafood and traditional South African fare.  Both had exceptional food and incredible service.

J Bay ended our Whale Coast and Garden Route road trip.  If you can’t tell from all of the effusive adjectives, we loved it and hope with all our hearts we get to come back.

Next up: The Wild Coast and the Drakensberg Mountains!